Norell’s understanding of design and his technical expertise made his read-to-wear garments as fine as any made-to-order outfits. After working for Hattie Carnegie, in 1940 he joined Anthony Traina and established one of the most successful fashion houses in the United States. He was instrumental in the launching of the ready-to-wear industry in this country.

Norell’s ingenuity in combining elegance and ease with meticulous craftsmanship resulted in garments that are classics. In 1943 he won his first Coty Award, and after winning tow more he was inducted into the Coty Hall of Fame in 1956. In 1960 he purchased Traina’s portion of the business and introduced his own label in 1961. Norell’s work was influenced to a great extent by the designs of the 1920s, the Flapper Era, and also greatly inspired by creations of Coco Chanel.

In this original model, from the last Traina-Norell collection of 1960, a strong Chanel influence is present. In the spring 1955, Chanel introduced suits with four buttoned flap pockets outlines with piping in a contrasting color. Chanel’s influence is also evident in the dramatic simplicity of this dress. The dress is beige raw silk with a double row of fourteen black buttons on the front panel. The panel and the flaps of two patched pockets, the collar and cuffs are outlined with black silk shantung piping. Silk crepe de chine lines the bodice while the skirt is lined with silk organdy. This dress was worn by Betty Furness during her on-camera appearances at the 1960 Presidential conventions and later by her daughter in 1967 when she held the Bible during her mother’s swearing-in ceremony as the first consumer advisor to President Lyndon Johnson.