Indianapolis Museum of Art Blog » fabric

Researching the American Textile Collection

Petra — Wed, 13 Oct 2010 17:56:02 +0000

A few months ago I wrote a post on data entry and clean-up. While to some, it may first seem uneventful- the glow of the computer screen, clacking keys, cream colored files.

It is really quite exciting; allow me to share just a few reasons why.

While researching the American textile collection, I delighted in studying our 1930s and 1940s textiles, a few of which were designed and produced as part of the Milwaukee WPA Handicraft project. This was a highly successful WPA venture that provided work for under-skilled people. The project engaged workers in a multitude of handcraft practices, instructed by designer- technicians drawn from graduates of the Milwaukee State Teachers College art department.

In the IMA’s collection, we have two examples of textiles that were produced as the result of this highly successful project; both designed by Florence Kawa.

The Reapers, Florence Kawa (39.41)

The Workers, Florence Kawa (39.42)

Other noteworthy 1930s and 1940s textiles in the collection (not associated with the WPA movement) were designed by Ruth Reeves, an illustrator and textile designer, known for her Art Deco imagery, as well as Dorothy Trout and Tom Lamb. Examples of their work were included in the 1931 publication, ANNUAL OF AMERICAN DESIGN.

The Circus, Ruth Reeves for Morley Fletcher, Ltd. (48.32)

Ruth Reeves, design for a children’s room (47.173)

Dorothy Trout (47.179)

(Note Dorothy’s signature)

Tom Lamb (47.180)

The IMA also houses textiles manufactured by the Waverly Division of F. Schumacher & Co., a fifth generation, family-owned interior design company founded in 1889. Waverly is a division of F. Schumacher & Co. launched in 1923.

One example, designed by William Domaratius is entitled MidSummer. Note the swatches attached at the top, providing alternate colorways or complimentary designs. As the company grew they added a wallpaper line, as well as commissioned works from famous European designers such as, Lalique, Brandt, Seguy, Follot and Poiret.

MidSummer, William Domaratius for F. Schmacher & Co., Waverly Division (TR1700)

The last examples I will share are by Jullian Tomchin and Margaret King (who also designed for F. Schumacher). Jullian Tomchin designed this piece to commemorate the birthday of fashion designer, Norman Norell. Along the selvage note the stamp that reads “Designed especially for A PARTY FOR NORMAN on October 23, 1967”.

Jullian Tomchin (S6587.87.1)

King’s design, entitled Cross Country, depicts 8 historic landmarks throughout the state of Indiana, manufactured by F. Schumacher & Co. for L.S. Ayres & Co.

Indiana buildings featured: Soldiers & Sailors Monument, Indianapolis; Indiana University Student Building, Bloomington; Whitcomb Riley’s birthplace, Greenfield; a covered bridge, Raccoon; Lincoln Village, Rockport; First State Capital, Corydon; Old Mill at Spring Mill Park; George Rogers Clark Memorial, Vincennes

The IMA houses additional versions of this design in blue and beige, as well as a sample of the matching wall-paper.

Cross-Country, Margaret King for F. Schumacher & Co. (47.193b)

IMA TV: A Miller House Discovery

Kate — Thu, 04 Mar 2010 16:58:19 +0000

Miller House (via IMA Photography Department)

IMA TV was there as Bradley Brooks, IMA’s Director of Historic Resources, first opened a box of textiles and design plans belonging to Alexander Girard, interior designer for Miller House in Columbus, IN.

Here’s a little background on Miller House:

The IMA recently acquired the landmark Miller House and Garden in Columbus, Indiana. One of the country’s most highly regarded examples of mid-century Modernist residences, the Miller House was designed by Eero Saarinen, with interiors by Alexander Girard, and landscape design by Daniel Urban Kiley. Read more about it (and see some amazing images) here.

Pay close attention to facial expressions in this video, and you’ll just see how significant this seemingly small discovery is:

Fashion in Bloom in the Gardens

Irvin Etienne — Fri, 03 Apr 2009 17:35:37 +0000

Fashion often finds inspiration in nature as illustrated by these designs created from actual plant material.

image from trendhunter.com

More often however designers are only inspired by plants when they are creating fabric for their work. That fact is the focus for the exhibition Fashion in Bloom put together by Niloo Imami-Paydar, IMA’s Curator of Textile and Fashion Arts. The exhibition opens Saturday April 4 and runs through January 30, 2010. The items in this exhibition go all the way back to the 1700’s, but the four I’m blogging about are from the late 1950’s to the 70’s.Mind you, as IMA Horticulturist Geoff Von Burg discovered when he developed a guide connecting flowers on the dresses with their botanical counterparts, the flowers are not always exact replicas of their living inspirations. Sometimes you just have to guess what the designer was thinking.

Is that a geranium? Or a rose? An anemone. No, maybe a cosmos?
Some however, are as obvious as a drag queen in size 14 stilettos. The bright flowers on this dress by James Galanos leave no doubt that it’s a field of hibiscus.

With the near-perfect shape of the petals and the large yellow protruding stamens, it’s practically a botanical print. Remember there are both tropical and hardy hibiscus plants. I’m sure the tropical variety inspired this fabric’s design.

image from phoenixplants.com

The tropical hibiscus comes in about every color but true blue and is Hibiscus rosa-sinensis. They make great summer plants here in the Midwest blooming constantly whether in containers or in the ground. They are easy to overwinter indoors and will even bloom if happy. The hardy ones, generally Hibiscus moscheutos and its hybrids, range from white to pink to red with the pinks and reds coming in palest pink to near burgundy. Some are now available with dark burgundy foliage as well. They die back completely each winter but come back up in late spring to bloom by mid-summer. In our gardens we have ‘Ruby Dot’ at the 42nd Street Bridge, ‘Intense Pink’ in the Dick Wood Formal Garden, and ‘Plum Crazy’ in front of the Madeline F. Elder Greenhouse.

The flowers on this dress by Indiana’s own Norman Norell must be zinnias …. or dahlias …. or mums.

image from howstuffworks.com

I like to think of them as zinnias since they are the quintessential summer flower in the Midwest and this dress just screams summer. And they can be found in all the bright colors shown on the fabric. Zinnias are one of the easiest of summer annuals to grow, full sun and decent drainage and they are happy. You can choose from shorter varieties such as the Zahara series I’m using this year around the Sutphin Fountain or the taller more traditional types I used to use in the cutting garden like the Benary’s Giant Series or the hot ‘Uproar Rose’.
I have to include the psychedelic influenced Bill Blass design in the show because the leaves make me think of coleus.

image from gardenguides.com

And really, why even get up in the morning if you aren’t going to think of coleus? Coleus are fabulous in the ground and in containers plus they can be used in the shade and the sun. There are precious few colors not included in their leaves. All you have to do is shop around for the one that fits best with your other plant colors. That’s color from flowers or foliage. Other flowers I see in this fabric are Gazania and Salpiglossis (painted tongue).

The last dress I want to mention is this 1970’s velvet number by Hanae Mori.

The beautiful pink cherry blossoms made me instantly think of the flowering almond (Prunus triloba var. multiplex) ready to bloom right now in the Southwest Border Garden.

Flowering Almond

Long time gardeners may recognize its similarity to the dwarf flowering almond (Prunus glandulosa), a much smaller spring blooming shrub that has fallen out of favor. The flowering almond is one of the earliest spring blooming shrubs, well before its leaves unfurl. It gets rather large, 12 to 15 feet, but can be pruned to maintain a slightly smaller stature. It is another of the woody plants that are great for forcing into bloom in late winter. You just cut a few branches, put ‘em in a vase, and in a few days you have gorgeous double pink flowers brightening the gray winter days. Like most Prunus species it prefers lots of sun.

I suggest you take some time to see Fashion in Bloom then take a stroll through our gardens to see how many similar flowers you find there. Or take a walk in the gardens first then see the show. Just do both and make yourself happy for awhile ( and Niloo, and me, and all the other horticulturists).

By the way, the redbuds (Cercis canadensis, C. reniformis, and C. chinenesis) are in very heavy bud just ready to burst into full bloom. Get your butt over here in the next couple weeks and check them all out.