Halston was greatly influenced by the skill and engineering exhibited in works by the French couturier Madeleine Vionnet and the American fashion designer Charles James. Halston created a number of garments based on and inspired by landmark pieces in James’s 1930s collections.

Reminiscent of traditional Chinese jackets, this exquisite, made-to-order quilted evening jacket is most likely based on a coat James created in 1937. Halston used fabric cut entirely on the bias and custom quilting to miter padded channels, creating what appears to be a straight-grain garment.