This made-to-order ensemble's sparkling and form-fitting evening gown is a Norman Norell signature design known as a "mermaid dress." Born in Noblesville, Indiana, Norell debuted the look in the early 1940s, and in endless variations mermaid dresses were a highlight of every collection until his last in 1972. The idea emerged during World War II, when the United States government imposed restrictions on the amount of material used in garments. Norell used sequins-which were not essential to the war effort-to provide American women with glamour within wartime restraints.

The sequins, which completely cover the dress and the lining of the coat, were sewn on by hand, each one axed with two stitches taken at slightly different angles to ensure they would lay flat and not catch on one another. The coat typifies Norell's relaxed and comfortable daytime styling; the sequined lining is his only concession to evening formality. The simplicity and casual elegance of Norell designs such as this one appealed to American women, who were willing to pay more for his dresses than for French couture. Norell's understanding of cut and his technical expertise made his ready-to-wear garments as fine as made-to-order outfits. He was instrumental in launching ready-to-wear in the United States.

I simply take the most straightforward approach . . . without any extra, fancy trimmings. I don't like over-designed anything.
-Norman Norell, 1952